Sibiu

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The Sibiu area shelters archelogical findings from Late Stone Age, Early Bronze and Iron Age to pre-Roman settlements inhabited by Dacian tribes. Traces of a Roman settlement named Cedonia puts Sibiu on the map of the Dacian Province of the Roman Empire.
Under the pressure of migratory tribes’ devastations, in 271 Emperor Aurelius retreated from Dacia. However, it appears that part of the “vulgar-Latin” speaking population continued to exist in smaller remote communities as proven by findings dating from the 4th to 7th centuries – Roman coins, evidence of early Christianity in sections of Latin inscriptions like the “Donarium of Biertan/Birthälm”.

The colonists, named in the documents “teutonici”, “flandres” or “saxones” established around 1150 a settlement called “Villa Hermanni” – Hermannsdorf, later Hermannstadt, mentioned first in a document in 1191 by Pope Celestin III. Hermannsdorf evolved towards urban life and got the rank of city – civitas in 1366.
The German colonists’ settlements united in seven Chairs, which towards the end of the 15th century formed a coherent administrative system called The University of Saxon Nation whilst Sibiu/Hermannstadt became the capital city of the Saxons.
The city grew in importance as it developed a prosperous trade with Hungary, Poland and the southern province of Wallachia.
The craftsmen in Hermannstadt also bartered goods – mainly clothes and tools – with the Romanian population. Production and trade developed and flourished, due to the activity of the guilds.
Their first written regulations (1367) mentioned 19 guilds, with 25 trades. Their number constantly grew. The flourishing period was shadowed by the Turkish danger as invasions followed one after the other beginning with 1394, 1432, 1437 and 1438, when the town successfully resisted against a siege led by the sultan Murad th 2nd.
In 1493 the city’s army reinforced by Romanian troops and led by Georg Hecht ambushed and defeated the Turkish army on their way back after a plunder campaign. The city extended and built concentric fortification walls, towers and bastions. After the Battle of Mohacs in 1526 Turks conquer the capital Buda in 1541 and put Hungary and Transylvania under their authority.
The Humanistic ideas and the Renaissance greatly changed the aspect of the town and its life, prompting the Saxons in 1543 to adopt the religious reformation, converting „in corpore“ to the Lutheran confession. At the end of the 16th century, at the end of some victorious campaigns, the Romanian prince Michael The Brave defeated the Hungarian army in 1599 under the walls of the town and united Transylvania with the province of Wallachia.
As the Turks were defeated by the Austrians at the end of the 17th century, Transylvania became a great principality of the Austrian Empire. The administrative power in the province was exercised between 1692-1790 from Sibiu/Hermannstadt. Although the Saxons preserved their Lutheran confession, the Catholic church embarked on a counter-Reform campaign, promoting the Baroque style with an visible impact on the town‘s architecture.
At the end of the 18th century the governor of Transylvania Samuel von Brukenthal had gathered an impressive library and rich art collections, mentioned since 1773 in the Almanach von Wien.
The collections were opened to the public in 1817 and became later the core of Brukenthal Museum. In the 18th century the town extended over the precinct walls, forming the district Josephin, Terezian and Lazaret. Since beginning with the 1541 only Saxons could have properties inside the walls of the town, the Romanian population settled in these districts.
The reign of Joseph the 2nd, marked by Enlightenment reforms gave in 1781 other ethnic groups the right to live in the town alonside with the Saxons. As a result, the Romanian orthodox bishop Vasile Moga and his church settled in the town. The Romanian population became more and more present in the life of the town, which become around the middle of the 19th century the spiritual centre of the Romanians’ struggle for political emancipation.
The Austrian–Hungarian dualism strippedd the privileges and the territorial administrative autonomy of the Saxons.
Transylvania was annexed to Hungary since 1867. The city witnessed once again an economical flourishing. Between 1840 and 1918, a number of 33 industrial enterprises were active in Sibiu/Hermannstadt. The electric plant was founded in 1896 and the electric tramway appeared in town in 1905.
At the end of World War I, in 1918 the Romanian population decides to unite Transylvania with the Kingdom of Romania, followed in 1919 by the Saxons’ Assembly voted for joining in.
Sibiu became the seat of the provisional government until the unification was completed.
Although the number of Romanians in town substantially raised, Sibiu/Hermannstadt remained the main centre of the German culture and education in Romania and witnessed a vivid cultural life of all the ethnic groups.
Sibiu did not suffer distructions during WW II but, after the war, the new communist authorities backed by Moskau began to nationalise the factories and the land while launching waves of pollitical trials and arrests against all oponents. For the population of Sibiu a long suffering began. The communist authorities considered Saxons guilty in corpore for collaborating with the German Reich and many of them were deported in the Soviet Union for forced labour.
Prompted by the dictatorial regime and economic hardships Saxons began in the 70’s to emmigrate to West Germany. The massive emmigration continued even after the Revolution in 1989, leaving in Sibiu only 2.200 Saxons.
As economic hardships and oppression grew during the 80’s, the population of Sibiu was fast to rebel against the communist regime in December 1989, when 91 persons lost their life in the armed clashes.
During the 90’s the city restored its democratical institutions and faces now the task of renewing the infrastructure and raising the living standard of its inhabitants.

more info here: http://www.sibiu2007.ro/index_en.php

medias

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An old settlement, Medias opens its gates generously to those who want to see the way time bears fruit between the Transylvanian hills. The setting up and the historic development of the town reflect the common destiny of the Romanians, the Hungarians, the Saxons and the other nations in a continuous process which belongs to their history.

Without an ethnical identity, anonymous, rough hands which know how to create but also how to caress their babies cheek, have begot the past and the present, have raised towers meant to bring the people of this land one step closer to God.

Medias cannot be taken out of its surroundings, because it is part and parcel of these places, where every town and village is a wonder in this huge open-air museum: Transylvania. The images, forms and colors from this small guide are an invitation for you to come and see, but also a gift to the soul of those whom destiny has carried them a long way from here …

By browsing through it, they will be able to conjure up memories faithfully kept by the old burgh and by those who are still here.

Medias is the second important town of the Sibiu county by its size, population (63,204 inhabitants in 1995) and economic growth. During the Middle Ages, the city, like most other towns in Transylvania, was strongly fortified. The Evangelic Church “St. Margaret” or the “Castle” represented the core around which the citadel gradually developed.

The first document relating to the existence of the town goes back to June 3rd, 1267; it was also mentioned later on, in documents of 1283 and 1318. Between 1480 and 1534, the castle was encompassed with a last fortification which had strong walls and defense towers. The citadel used to have three rows of walls with three main gates (Forkesch to the south, Zekesch to the east, and Steingasse to the north), four secondary gates and 19 bastions with defense towers.

The medieval centre of the city has a particular charm, with narrow winding lanes, centuries-old houses and a large square towards which converge the main streets of the town. Among the worth visiting towers and bastions of the city are the Furriers’ Bastion (1641), the Blacksmiths’ Tower (1641), the Wheelwrights’ Tower (17th c.), the Knife-Makers’ Bastion (15th c.), the Gate’s Tower (16th c.).

more info here: http://www.fortified-churches.com/

sighisoara

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In the third century BC, at the present location of Sighisoara there was a castle named “Sandova”. Its significance has been proven by the many weapons, ceramics and other objects discovered here. Above the old castle the Romans raised a new one in the 1st century. The place was well-chosen–in the center of Transylvania.

At the beginning of the 15th century, Sighisoara has suppored the principle of Muntenia (Muntenia, or Greater Wallachia, is a historical province of Romania situated between the Danube, the Carpathian Mountains and the Olt River, usually considered Wallachia-proper – Muntenia, Tara Romaneasca, and the seldom used Valahia are synonyms in Romanian) between 1431-1435 in the occupation of the throne of Tara Romanesca. The coins made here were used widely in the whole of Transylvania.

In 1511 the greatest revolution in Transylvania’s history occurred when the poor of the town revolted against the rich. On his way to Alba Iulia in 1600, Mihai Viteazul (Michael the Brave was the Prince of Wallachia between 1593 and 1601) himself was here before he proclaimed he union of the 3 principalities: Wallachia, Transylvania, and Moldavia.
A big honor in the towns history was the Dieta Transilvaniei”. Many years ago this “Dieta Transilvaniei” had vote Gheorghe Rakoczi the 1st as leader, permanent ally of the leader of Tara Romaneasca and Moldova.

Sighisoara has a period of glory, as it becomes an important center of arts. Sculptors, painters from the south of Germany, Austria with native personalities as Elias Nicolai has contributed to the prosperity of the town. In the 17th century Sighisoara lives through hard times because in the towns history were many disasters recorded: siege, hunger, plague, inundation, earthquakes, fire.

In the 19th century, meanwhile the revolt from 1848, the region of Tarnava rivers is the scene of dreadful fights. In 1849 took place the battle at Albesti, where one of the greatest Hungarian revolutionist, Petofi Sandor has felt at duty. In his memory at Albesti an imposing statue has been errected.

After the first world war the oppressed nations are requesting their freedom. At the meeting at Alba Iulia in December of 1918 declares the union with Romania.

more info here: http://www.fortified-churches.com/

Fagaras

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The mighty citadel of Fagaras is like a gate that takes you back to the medieval times. It can be found right in the middle of the city, easy to spot due to its thick walls which are set off by the small houses around it. The visitor must also condone the newly built orthodox cathedral, which proves to be another huge useless building for the eternal glory of the patriarch. Just like anywhere else in Romania, the signs which should guide you around are missing, but enough information can be found on internet, as well as the maps of the surrounding area.
The most comprehensive text found on the internet regarding the Fortress of Fagaras is found on the web page of Radu Negru College:

“Nowdays, the Fortress of Fagaras is the biggest construction of the city, still surrounded by defending lake. In times of war and social unrest, this lake was easily filled with water, grace to a river coming from the mountain. The river’s course was artificially deviated, as the surrounding lake become deeper and to be an obstacle in the way of Turkish and Tatar invasion. The museum of History and Ethnography of the Land of Fagaras is located in one of the castle’s wings, as well as the City Library, and a wine cellar, and a restaurant. Over the centuries, the city has developed in the fortress surroundings vicinity, on the base of Fagaras Mountains. Regarding the fortress construction beginnings, we have two evidences in the two documents from the XVIII century. The first one, redacted in Latin in 1726 is presenting the fortress, under the title « ???? Fagaras » The same text has been reproduced after a half century, in 1776, in a manuscript about the church’s history and Franciscan monastery of Fagaras. From the same year (1776) it did exist a second document, containing the text in German of a chronicle named « Fagorascher Cronik » . The content of these two documents is almost identical. The history of Fagaras Fortress begins with the date of March 11th, 1291, when the king of Hungarians, Andrew the 3rd (1290-1301), has organized at Alba Iulia a congregation of Magyar, Saxon, Romanian and Szekler nobles from Transylvania. In his congregation « Magister Ugrinus » has been raised, sustaining that the lands of Fagaras and Sambata have been unlaufully taken away, being his family possessions. He has proved his rights by royal diplomas that his predecessors have been received. As a fact of all there claims, the king has returned his possessions. This document appears to be very important, as it can be considered like the first documentary attesting, not only for this field, but also for Fagaras Fortress, taking into account that in that times a feudal land was unacceptable without a fortress existence. Some historians associate this date with Fagaras authonomy cancellation.

From XV century the first sure attesting of stone fortress of Fagaras has come to us. In a trial case from 1455, Iancu de Hunedoara entitled two castellans in order to administrate Fagaras and next year a « fortalicium » existence can be found at Fagaras.

It seems that in 1301, the stone fortress construction started, but these are several opinions, then Ladislau Kan or Apor, the king of Transylvania ( voivode of Ardeal ), has started to build what was to become the one of the well known and impressive medieval cities of Romania.

First a woolen and earthen fortress has been raised, and the 65 villages of Fagaras Country surrounded it and formed later the city.

From the XVIIth century untill the Hapsburg Empire estabilish, by several constructions and renovations, the fortified center has been transformed into city-fortress, built in the style of later Renaissence and having a great fame. Tradition says that on the place of fortress another fortification, older over a millenium, probably a roman castle, could be found, and the prove for that being a dacic-roman monetary treasure, as well as teh mysterious inscriptions found on some stones, that stay written of belonging to another initial construction.

Over its existence, the fortress passed through several conquerors. It had belonged to Vladislav I (Vlaicu Voda), starting from January 20th, 1368, and to Mircea cel Batran.

The king Sigismund of Hungary was the one that in 1431 entitled Vlad Dracul (the forth son of Mircea cel Batran) duke over Fagaras and Amlas and also military protector of the South of Transylvania.

In 1456, Iancu de Hunedoara entitled Vlad Tepes (the son of Vlad Dracul) landlord over Fagaras and he gave to him the keep-guard of the South of Transylvania. According to a document dated on September 10th, 1456, Vlad has entitled as Dominus Terre de Fagaras. Vlad Tepes has come to Fagaras and has been enrolled an army in order to conquer the throne of Valachia. The local nobles supported him.

In the month of March 1460, Vlad Tepes declared himself as king over Fagaras Country. But his reign last only till 1462. Then, the fortress belonged to the Transylvanian princes and later, to the Hapsburgs. It’s strategic most important location has transformed the city into a resistance point against Turkish and Tatar attacks.

Century XVI was the time of great transforming in the Fortress of Fagaras architecture, transforming from a defending fortress into a voievod’s castle, having a strong external fortification. In this century the old fortress was characterized as an inexpugnable feudal fortification complex. In achiveing of all these transformations the voievod Stefan Mailat (1528-1541) has played the most important role. The first transformations took place in 1538, when Stefan Mailat has changed the wool walls with stone and brick walls.

In 1541, the Principate of Transylvania was recognized by Ottoman Empire, as an independent state, paying tribute to the Ottoman state.

After the year of 1573, the castle has entered into Bathory Family possessions (Stefan Bathory, 1571-1575, Cristof Bathory, 1575-1581, Sigismund Bathory, 1581-1597 and 1599-1602, Andrei Bathory, 1599).

Between 1599-1601, Michael the Brave owned the fortress of Fagaras. The fortress had become the prince residence of Michael the Brave, who, in 1600 made gift the castle, as well as the land of Fagaras wo his wife, Lady Stanca. He has been found shelter after the Minaslau defeating (September, 18th, 1600) and his family has lodged until 1601. At Fagaras, he was kept a judging chair, rebuilt churches and has given monuments, written in Romanian.

Transforming over the XVIIth century have been estabilish the present shape of Fagaras monument. The Prince of Transylvania, Gabriel Bethlem (1613-1639), as a good organizer, has initaited several constructions of fortress and places all over the Transylvania. Starting with the year of 1614, for several times, he has asked the Transylvania Great Meeting to vote the new incomes and free labour from serfs in order to build the fortress. At Fagaras the working started in 1623, after several preparations the prince himself attended. He elaborated a project by which, the obligation of bricks manufacturing starting is specified, as 3.000 pieces daily, as they reach of 600.000 in a year, with the scope of bastions building.

1.500 serfs have been chosen, organized into groups ( 500 each week ). They have to build the brick-houses for drying over the summer. The craft working have been continued in the castle, on the stone carrying and cutting.

Under the prince George Rakoczi I (1630-1648) the castle consolidation was continued.

In this period, the external walls have been doubled over the north and south face and guard division building have been finished. The building was located on the right place of the gate.

The walls and the massive towers of stone of the fortress have been arranged in a shape of trapezium with four corners, and other four bastions. The access in the fortress is a bridge over the defending lake, located in the front of location, and the castle is in the middle of the fortress. The castle has three floors underground, lobby, the first floor, several towers ( The Red Tower, The Black Tower, The Prison Tower), and 80 rooms.

By building the bastions, floors , stylistic transformation and filling of the moat the architectonic transformation of the Fagaras fortress ended.

The princes who succeeded the throne of Transylvania, have appreciated the military value of the Fagaras Citadel. The Prince Mihai Apaffi I (1662 – 1690) moved his residence here, and founded, inside the citadel, a mint.

Under the reign of this Prince the citadel had a golden era, shining in feasts and luxury.

In 1699, by the signing of the Karlowitz treaty, Transylvania is yielded to Austria, by the Ottoman Empire; so it became the host of an imperial, Habsburgs’ garrison and various rooms turned to cells where rebel serves were imprisoned.

The 18th century, , under the Austrian domination, it’s the century when for the citadel starts a period of regressive transformation, felt at the inventory from 1726, where its own degradation can be observed the citadel being used now only for military affairs. It was a time when its fortifications no longer faced the development of military technique, and the new owners transform it in a castle – palace. From 1740 – 1780, when Maria Theresa was princess of Transylvania, she was given the title of great princess from 1765 – 1780), its image resembles the one of today.

In the 19th century, and starting with the 20th century, the feudal building is step by step depreciating, losing its elegance and greatness.

From 1507 – 1848, the citadel had 33 supreme captains. It became an important center on the map of the Romanian independent regions, Transylvania’s Diet kept its meetings four times here.

The great district of Transylvania (1765 – 1867) stopped to exist in 1867 and, on the period of the existence of the Austrian – Hungarian Empire, its territory was embodied to that of Hungary.

The modern era, had a huge effect on the Fagaras’ Citadel and the inhabitants surrounding the locality.

The citadel was used in different ways until 1948; therefore from 1948 -1960 was used as a prison. Starting with 1965 it becomes a museum, and during the 80’s it was renovated.

In the late 90’s, mainly starting with 1989, noting else was done in this direction.

In 2000, occasionally, the citadel served as a film studio for a few foreign movies.

In the last period, different local institutions and even foreign organizations showed their interest in renovating and rearranging the citadel; things that make us believe that everything comes to normal again. Thus the Fagaras’ Citadel regains the place it deserved in the history and the life of the inhabitants of this town. The renovation of this citadel, means the rehabilitation of the identity and dignity of some people who have been proud of their inheritance for seven decades.

The Princesses of the Fagaras’ Citadel and their Legends

As they say the domain of Fagaras, that included the citadel, was one of the richest and the most beautiful among the princes’ domains of Transylvania. Also called Canaan, this domain had two markets and 60 villages. Most of the times, it was offered as a wedding gift to the Princesses.

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The Lady Ana Maria Mailat – a fighter for the salvation of the life of her husband.

The first lady to rule the citadel was Ana Nadasy , the sister of the great PALATIN Toma Nadasy. She got married to Stefan Mailat in 1530, prince of the Ardeal who ruled the Fagaras from 1528 to 1541. Stefan Mailat is double crossed by the Ottomans who were helped by the princes of Muntenia and Moldavia and he dies in an Ottoman prison where he dies ten years later. Princess Ana Mailat, stayed in Fagaras when her husband was in the Ottoman jail together with their children Margareta and Gavrila who later were taken care by his brother, Toma Nadasy. She rules the domain like a man , trying at the same time in many ways to set free Stefan Mailat, but everything was in vain. Ana Nadasy ruled and lived in the citadel after the death of the Prince, too. Two years after his death she leaves Fagaras but comes back six years later where she ‘ll stay until she dies.

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Maria Cristierna – the hermit of the citadel

Archduchess Maria Cristierna, the sister of the Austrian emperor, Ferdinand II , is the second princess to receive as a wedding gift the Fagaras citadel and the domain belonging to it, after she married Prince Sigismund Bathori (1581 – 1598). Their marriage in 1595 was a formal one, that was not consumed, and four years later The Pope put an end to it. The princess who lived most of the time alone in the citadel accepted the situation she had to face by political reasons, organizing charities for the inhabitants of Fagaras, and at the same time, making important changes inside the castle. After their marriage ended she lived in an abbey in Tirol, where she would die like the abbess in 1620. Despite all the inconveniences from the others, The Princess didn’t give up her rights over Fagaras until she died.

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Lady Stanca and her children – prisoner and slave of the citadel

The third lady to rule the citadel is Stanca, The wife of Mihai Viteazul; she received it as a gift from the prince. Lady Stanca and her two children, Nicolae Patrascu and Lady Florica, will settle here. Mihai Viteazul builds in the east part of the citadel an orthodox church for his family. After the Battle of Mieraslau ( September 18, 1600) they are hold inside the citadel as prisoners; and after the cunning murder of the prince on Turda battle field on September 1 1601, the Lady stayed ere as a slave. In 1938, N Iorga proposed to the “Romanian Women Organization” from Fagaras to built a bust of Lady Stanca. Lady Maria Cornelia Budanu, the president of the “Romanian Women Organization from Oltenia and Fagaras” was in charge with this.

The project was sustained by a committee formed especially for this event and its members were important people at that time like Mr. Moise Grama the mayor of Fagaras headmasters and teachers from schools and high schools, the ladies from the “Romanian Women Organization from Oltenia and Fagaras”; and inhabitants of Fagaras. The monument once realized was placed nesrby the citadel more exactly in its east side.

On the support of the monument is written “May she rest in piece for she suffered all humiliations and menaces by asking for the justice of its people. In sufferance and forever in pain, Mihai Viteazu’s wife. Lady Stanca.”

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Caterina de Brandenburg- the richest Princess

The citadel of Fagaras will have a new owner only in 1626, named Caterina de Brandenburg, who belonged to the Hohenzollern Family. The citadel was given to the Princess as a dowry by her husband, Prince Gabriel Bethlen (1613 – 1629) who has got the citadel in 1614. The inventory of the citadel made at her leaving, sees her as a rich princess, able to compete the wives of the European Princes. Prince Bethlen ordered the rebuilding of the citadel in the same form as it is today. The emblem of the princess, representing two stabbed birds framed in a flower wreath; having the initials C.B. and the year 1626 can be seen above the door from the princely apartments. After Bethlen’s death, Caterina remained the owner of the citadel as a regent of Ardeal County after 1630, too.

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Susana Lorantfy – Founds the Romanian School

Gheorghe Rakoczy I (1629 – 1648) had got the citadel after 1630 and continued the working stopped by his predecessor. He gave the citadel together with all the goods of the Fagaras Country to his wife, Susana Lorantfy, as a gift. The subdue of the Roman priests, to the protestant consistoriu (administrative and discipline organ in the leading of some churches) in Fagaras and the founding of the First Romanian School. Its goal was the passing of the Romans from this region to Calvinism. After the prince’s death, the widow Susana Lorantfy remained the owner of the citadel even under the reign of her son, Gheorghe Rakoczy II ( 1648 – 1657).

Having as a basis the new ideas of the Polish Ioan Amos Commenius, and the support of the Romania leaders from Fagaras, The Princess founds in 1647 in Fagaras a school for priests and “gramatici” ( public officers) that functioned until 1700 . The fame of this school got to The Romanian Countries, too.

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Ana Bornemissa and the end of the Transylvanian Independent Region

From 1654 – 1661, the owners of the citadel change often until the rule of Mihail Apafi I (1662 – 1690) the time when the citadel had the most important role in its history. Like its predecessors, having the approval of the diet from September 24 1663, Prince Apafi offered the citadel as a gift to his wife, Ana Bornemissa, and their children. The nobility had to serve the citadel or where they are ordered to. The princess had the right to decide whom to send or not to the war.

There was a numerous staff at the citadel, the court competing in luxury, with the courts from west. Princess Ana Bornemissa, who had quite a restless life, dies on August 8 1688; and in April 15, 1690 Prince Mihail Apafi I The last prince of the independent Transylvania dies.

Later on, under the Habsburgs ‘domination, the citadel lost its important role comparing to the time when it was ruled by Transylvanian Princes.”

here is the link: http://radunegru.ro/VARIANTA%20ENGLEZA/Html/istoria%20Fagarasului.html

air view:

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satellite view:

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Homorod

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The Fortified Churches are an unique and interesting phenomenon but I prefer to think of them as a landmark in Transylvania. There were more than 300 Fortified Saxon Churches in Transylvania. Unfortunately some of them are extinct, some of them are on the virge of extinction but most of them are still standing, even in abandoned and forgotten villages, hard to find by a foreigner. You don’t have to be an adventurer to come and see all these beauties as you might think. The only thing you have to do is study a little the map of south east and central Transylvania. The best way to get around is by car, motorbike or bicycle. There are some commuter trains, but you should probably want to spend more time visiting the cathedrals and fortresses than traveling on rails. If you come from Germany, Austria or Switzerland you will surely find a German speaking guide in every fortified church which is included in the tourist circuit.

Now, more about Homorod (as found on the website – www.fortified-churches.com):

The church

The villagers started building a single-nave Romanesque church, which is uncommon for a Saxon church, in the 13th century. They began construction by building the first choir and a semicircular apse, which opened towards the rest of the church through a chancel arch. The church was very small and had a bell-tower on its western side.
The tower had a cross-ribbed vault over the ground floor and a loggia above the doorway with three setback arches. On the second level there was a circular arcade leading into the western loft which was later sealed up. The nave of the church was initially topped by a flat ceiling which was replaced in the 1500s with a gothic vault supported by detached columns in the corners of the nave. Other elements were built on either side of the southern bell tower which enclosed a corkscrew staircase leading up to the attic. The belfry appears that it has never been divided into separate storeys despite the wooden ladders attached to the walls starting from the western loft and leading to the wall passage.

The fortification

It appears that the stronghold has never been conquered. The villagers’ strategy when attacked was to send their cattle into the forest and then to run inside the walls of the fortress. Their enemies seem to have unsuccessfully laid siege to the fortress for as long as two weeks until finally giving up. The first mantle wall follows a rectangular path and was built in the 15th century. On the corners it has towers equipped with machicolations. Two wall passages, one on top of the other, connected the four towers and were supported by wooden brackets. A small gate-tower guards the entrance on the western side. The inner curtain wall was surrounded with a second one. In 1657, the north-western tower was replaced with another which that measured 10 metres in height. This tower had a pentagonal plan and four storeys, later becoming the Lard Tower. On the fourth floor its walls were decorated with red and blue ornaments and stories were written in three niches within its walls.

Link: http://www.fortified-churches.com/locations/homorod___hamruden/34/

This church is not a museum as you probably think. It can be visited but you have to look for it’s curator, one of the very few Germans who still live in the village. The inhabitants speak German, Hungarian and a little English and will take you to the curator’s house which is at approximately 100 m of the church. You can easily reach Homorod by car taking the road from Brasov to Sighisoara and turn right before you enter the city of Rupea. There is a road sign that you can see.

The map of Brasov county and the exact location of the village:

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Arial view:

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Harman

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Harman fortified church is close to Brasov, the county capital and also one of the seven German towns and administrative areas of the medieval Transylvania – Brasov (Kronstadt), Sighisoara (Schäßburg), Medias (Mediasch), Sibiu (Hermannstadt), Sebes (Mühlbach), Bistrita (Bistritz) and Cluj (Klausenburg). To get there you have to follow the road to Sfantu Gheorghe and than turn left towards Harman after 2-3 km.

The story of Harman, though, dates back long before this siege of 1643. It relates to the Teutonic Knights who had settled here and in Feldioara, Prejmer, Rasnov, and Sanpetru at the beginning of the 13th century. Its first written acknowledgment came only later, in a document dated the 21st of March 1240, 15 years after the Teutons had been chased off this territory. In that document, King Bela IV turns over to the Cistercians the churches of Feldioara (Castrum Sanctae Mariae), Sanpetru (Sancti Petri), Harman (Mons Mellis) and Prejmer (Tartileri) along with all their income and belongings, in order to serve as help for the annual communitarian contribution they were to give.

The church
When it was taken over by the Cistercians in 1240, the Romanesque three-nave church was probably under construction. Most of the constructive elements from this stage have been preserved. All in all, the interior of the church is fairly heterogeneous, as traces of different styles and periods have been kept, besides the typically Cistercian details as the four-lobed openwork windows above the pointed-arch ones.

The stronghold
The fortification system that surrounds the church was erected in the 15th century. It consisted of three concentric curtain-walls, similar to the ones at Sânpetru. The outermost wall, that used to surround the water ditch, has not been preserved. The second, now exterior wall is 4.5 meters high and was meant to protect the base of the inner mantle wall. The latter is 12 metres high and is reinforced by seven forerunning towers. The entire mantle wall was covered with a wall passage that linked the seven towers, similar to what may be seen at Prejmer and Sânpetru.

Link: http://www.fortified-churches.com/locations/harman___honigberg/94/

The location:

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Arial view:

Harman-fortified-Evangeli

Biertan

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Take the road from Sighisoara to Medias and soon you’ll discover a breathtaking sight. In no more than 8 km from Sighisoara turn left on the road to Biertan (follow the road sign). This church is considered to be not only the most beautiful but also the most unconquerable fortress in this region. Maybe this is the reason for which it was chosen as Evangelic Diocese for a long period of time.

There are two detailed description of the church:

This one is from http://www.fortified-churches.com/

The town of Biertan / Birthalm is one of the oldest settlements in Transylvania. It was first mentioned in 1283 in a document concerning the taxes demanded from the Catholic priests of Saxon settlements by the Superior Board (Capitle) of Alba-Iulia. As far back as the late 14th century, Biertan was mentioned as an oppidum (borough). In 1418 it receives the Ius gladii (the right to be a sword bearer) and the right to organize a weekly Saturday market in the main square. This latter custom has endured well after WW II. Competing for the title of judicial and administrative centre was also Mosna / Meschen. This is why the two townships were each stimulated to build impressive buildings which were to augment their glory. But as the two were matching up their strengths, Medias finally won the title. What it may have lost in administrative power, Biertan surely won in the spiritual one. For three hundred years, since the election of priest Lucas Ungerus as head of the evangelist community in Transylvania, on the 6th of May 1572, Biertan was the seat of the bishopric.

The Church
The church was built between 1486 and 1524 on the premises of an older church. It has three equally high naves and is the last edifice of this kind to be built in Transylvania. It is built in late gothic style with Renaissance elements and was rather limited in its design by the configuration of the ground it was built on.

The Fortification
The system of the fortified church consists of three precincts that successively enclose one another and communicate through gate-towers.

You can also follow this link: http://www.fortified-churches.com/locations/biertan___birthaelm/4/

This description is much better and more elaborated:

You can find it here: http://www.biertan.ro/biserica_atractii.php?lang=en

Short History
The eclesiastic and defence complex was built in 15th-16th centuries in the late Gothic style,with specific Renaissance elements.
For 300 years Biertan was chosen as the residence of the Evangelic Diocese (1572-1867)
The main edifice of the ensemble is a hall-church with three naves,with arches disposed in a network,built between 1492 – 1516 on the place of another old church, in the late Gothic style,with elements from the Renaissance arhitecture at some portals.
Inside the church the late Gothic shrine, in the form of a triptych was realized in more stages between 1515-1524.
The pews are made between 1514-1523 by Reychmut from Sighisoara and are ones of the most valuable pews of this kind from Transylvania.
Unique in its way the door of the vestry built in 1515,is remarkable for its blocking system.
As a result of the earthquake in 1977 , restoration and consolidation works of the arches were done.

General Description
This historic monument, an arhitectural masterpiece,is illustrative for the entire area which was colonized by the Saxons of Transylvania.
Out of a total of almost 300 fortified churches built between the 15th and 16th centuries, the church from Biertan preserved very well its previous aspect.
This edifice is placed high on a hillock right in the centre of the village, in the center of the transverse valleys borded by vineyards, maize cultures and forests .

The Church, hall type, with three naves, from the period of late Gothic was built in 1500-1516,the chancel of the pre-existent edifice being heighten with a fortified level. The inner wall, from the same period, was fortified during the 16th century with 8 towers,being unfolded in a spiral form,like a three-towered belt around the hill.
The present church is embelished by walss painted in the 16th century. Another church occupied the same place before. It can still be observed the frescos from the beginning of the 16th century on the Southern tower of the inner wall as well as the tombstones of the Saxon bishops in the Mausoleum tower.
The Baroque and Renaissance contribution,originated in Central Europe , is from the 16th 17th, 18th centuries .The walls are painted and the basic structures are made of stone.
In the period when the chancel from Biertan was fortified,the consolidation of the eclesiastical buildings continued in most of the parts.
The western tower is heighten and endowed with storeys having a defensive role, using a large number of possibilities when it is about the ways of defence intermingled with the work and forms of arhitecture.

The Church itself
The main edifice of the ensemble is a hall-church with three naves,with arches disposed in a network,built between 1492-1516on the place of another old church.
The church is built in the late Gothic style with elements of Renaissance arhitecture at some portals .
The church is the last edifice of this kind (the hall-church) built in Transylvania.
As a result of the fortification work started after in the year 1515, and above the chancel there was built a fortified storey endowed with firing windows.

The shrine of the church
The shrine is built in the late Gothic style, carved in wood, by Johannes Reichmuth from Sighisoara and it has 24 painted icons representing biblical scenes .
These icons were made in the period 1483-1515. The main part is formed by a crucifix representing Mary, Jesus and Mary Magdalena who embraces the cross On two other elements, which are on the sides of the main painting, there are represented visions of Ezekiel and of king Augustin.

The clock tower
This tower is in the North-Eastern part of the church, besides the function attributed by its name, it is also a tower of the gate for the first inner wall.
This tower is endowed with an wooden passage and firing windows, and above the pyramid – shaped roof there is the clock itself.

The bell tower
In the Northern part of the church there is the tower with a wooden bell. In the first part of the 19th century, this tower was consolidated by the carpenter Hoeck.

The Mausoleum tower
In this tower, in 1913 there were brought the tombstones of the following priests: Johannes (�1520) , Franz Salicaeus (�1567) ,the bishops Lukas Unglerus (�1600), Mathias Schiffbaumer (�1611), Zacharias Weyrauch (�l621), Franz Graffius (�1627), Georg Theilesius (�1646), Christian Barth (�1658), Christian Haas (�1686). In front of the tower there can be found the tombstones of the bishops D. Graeser (�1833) and G.P Binder (�1867).

The prison tower (the bastion)
This tower had also a more…… strange usage: in the small room of the tower equiped with only a bed, a table a plate and only one set of utensils, the .pairs which wanted, for different reasons, to separate were imprisioned .

The Catholic tower
This tower is placed in the Southern part of the church. The theme of the icons on the walls is mainly connected with the Doom Day.
This tower of the Catholics had represented for a long time a symbol of the religious tolerance in a country often faced with ethnic and confessional conflicts. When the most part of the population from Biertan became Protestants, there was built for those who remained faithful to the old religion another church
Since 1564 Transylvania was the only European country with four confessions revealing a certain level of religious frredom. Along with the Calvinists, Lutherans, Roman – Catholics and “Antitrinitars”(The oponents of the Trinity dogma) Orthodoxy was also tolerated.

The Townhall Tower
This tower is placed in the Western side of the church. It was also a tower-gate for the cart track that entered the church making the connection between the inner and the middle walls of the church’s precints. Some adornments from the 16th century can still be seen on the console beam of the roof.

The towers of the gate
In the Southern part of the church the cart track goes under two gate-towers:one corresponding to the third wall and the other corresponding to the second wall of precincts. The inner tower was also called The Tower of the Bacon, because on siedge times it was an important storehouse for food.

The Weavers’ Bastion
This bastion is placed in the West side of the church, on the exterior wall of the precints. Presently this tower has been converted into a painting studio of a painter from Biertan.

The walls of the church
The ensemble of the fortified church from Biertan is made up of three concentric walls, the inner ones being circular. This walls were connected by tower – gates. Thus the second and the third walls are connected by the Townhall Tower. Between this tower and the first tower of the gate (found on the second wall of the precincts)there is a cart track,that could be blocked at any time by a vertical gate.

Access ways to the church
Besides the way which makes the connection between the exterior and the interior of the church there is also the Northern access, made by using covered stairs that link the ex- headquarters and the bell tower.

Arial View:

biertan-from-the-hill-2008

Map of Sibiu county and the location of Biertan village:

jud

For accomodation you can search on this page:

http://www.fortified-churches.com/locations/biertan___birthaelm/4/2/

There are some nice resorts and you can spend 2 or 3 days exploring the surrounding area by bicycle or, why not, by horse, just like in medieval times.

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